A pilgrimage to St. Mary’s Well, Jesmond, Newcastle
Jesmond Dene has seen many faces: private estate, heart of industry and delightful municipal park. Fortunately, it is the later which describes it now: a pleasant sweep of wooded valley, with its great river meandering through it, the haunt of dog walkers, joggers, parents with pushchairs and excited children. However, cast back to long before the 1800s to which much of its present guise steams from, back to the mid medieval period and this area of Jesmond was the scene of great pilgrimage. The goal of these pilgrims was the chapel of St. Mary, once the third biggest pilgrimage site in the Kingdom. To visit it now it’s difficult to understand why, despite an eerie sense of sanctity, its size suggests little importance. But size is not everything it’s what’s inside that counts and inside this chapel was thought to be a very important relic, although exactly what remains a mystery.
A street in Newcastle called Pilgrim Street is said to be connected to the shrine being where pilgrims would gather and be accommodated. A feel of its importance can be gathered by a record of 1479, a Yorkshire rector left money in his will for pilgrims to travel to the Kingdom’s great shrines St Pauls, Canterbury’s Becket shrine and the chapel at Jesmond. The Pope also gave special dispensations I believe in a Papal bull.
A few feet away, up a dirt path, is our main site of pilgrimage, St. Mary’s Well, although the causal passerby would be unaware until they walk up that lane as there is no signage from the street. This is an interesting holy well for a number of reasons. Firstly, that it is one of the few wells ever to be excavated…and secondly that despite a supposed long history and association with a chapel with a known provenance we should not always take everything on face value age wise. When tree root damage threatened the site in the early 1980s it was decided to excavate the site, the work being written up by Fraser (1983) in ‘St Mary’s Well, Jesmond, Newcastle upon Tyne’ in the 5th series of Archaeologia Aeliana. The research found that the earliest phase was only seventeenth century. A number of other springs were located nearer the chapel and it is thought that one of these was more probably the holy well, although authorities like Brewis (1928) writing in the article ‘St Mary’s Chapel, and the site of St Mary’s Well, Jesmond’ in the 4th series of Archaeologia Aeliana
The earliest description appears to be Wallis (1769) in his The Natural History and Antiquities of Northumberland he describes it as:
“walled round with stone; a saffron-yellow ochre appearing on the sides, and a blue vitrioline sediment at the bottom. It is a plentiful spring. It is made to fall into a stone-bath, a little below it. In the monastic times it was much frequented by pilgrims.”
Richardson The Border book notes
The Holy Well and shrine at this place were anciently in high estimation, and resorted to by pilgrims, who came from all parts of the Kingdom to worship there. It has a reputation as a healing well. The well was enclosed by William Coulson Esq., who purchased possession here in 1669 (as) a bathing place, which was no sooner done than the water left it. This was considered a just revenge for profaning the sacred well; but the water soon returned and the miracle ended
The excavation revealed that the bathing pool was installed as noted in the eighteenth century and the stone was a remodelling from the nineteenth century. Mackenzie (1837) in his Historical, Topographical and Descriptive view of the county of Northumberland states:
“St. Mary’s Well, in this village, which has as many steps down to it as there are articles in the creed..The Holy Well and shrine at this place were anciently in high estimation. Gray says in his chronography “with great confluence and devotion people came from all parts of this island to the shrine of the Virgin Mary” Bourne also observes, it all parts of the island to worship at it
Today, services are still held at the chapel, namely the first Sunday of May, where pilgrims still go to the well and collect its clear and healing waters. Brewis (1928) confusingly notes that:
The well itself is now underground, but the north end of the stone head is still visible.”
Suggesting that sometime in the twentieth century it was restored. More confusingly his account suggests that the spring was a thermal one:
“a Jesmond gentleman, that his grandfather, one winter’s day, took him to see this well
Touching the water, confusingly it does not appear to be warm, but of course that may be different on a cold day. The well is arched over with an inscription stating ‘gratia’ which is said to be part of a longer inscription ‘Ave Maria gratia plena’ although the former is thought to be 18th century in date. Today the spring water is clear and flowing running over is chamber and running down the channel into an overflow albeit covered in leaves. A venerable yew shadows this secret shrine creating a quiet and somewhat eerie nook in a scene of domesticity. It still has many visitors and is kept in very good condition. On an August afternoon it can be a peaceful escape from the modern pressure of Newcastle.
Posted on August 19, 2013, in Favourite site, Northumberland, Pilgrimage, Restoration, Saints and tagged folklore, Holy well blog, Jesmond, Newcastle, Our Lady, Pilgrimage. Bookmark the permalink. 10 Comments.
Do you have instructions on how to reach the well?
I found the chapel a few years ago, on the way I went up a path that seemed like it was the right way to the well but I didn’t want to risk exploring further in case I found myself accidentally wandering into someone’s back yard. I’d love to be able to see it for myself.
More than happy to help. If you have your back to the chapel facing Jesmond Dene road I believe. Turn left and walk up until you see a dirt track type road on the right, I believe called The Grove carry up this until the well is signed on the right. This pdf may help too
Click to access st_marys_chapel_east_walks.pdf
Hope you enjoy the blog, I’ll be doing more on this region soon so keep coming back or follow. All the best
Thank you for the reply, hopefully I will be able to find it when the weather improves 🙂
I live just opposite the well. It’s amazing that it was one of the three main pilgrimage sites in medieval England.
hi im peter ,have u ever seen ,heared anything out of the ordinary with it beeing so old and sacred tnx
do you think any pilgrims came here with offerings from the holy land ,is there any connection to the holy grail ,,also do u know if any famouse have visited such as the king and queen alexandra when they visited the dean
Thank you for this article. I had no idea that this place existed and I have been visiting Newcastle for years. I visited the well today and it was extremely atmospheric, as was the nearby St Mary’s chapel.
I have been visiting the chapel and the well for years. Before COVID on the first Sunday of the month10/12 of us gathered in the chapel on each first Sunday of the month to recite the rosary and other prayers in honour of our lady and pray for many more intentions. This devotion has been going on since 1942/45 it began by a lady called Therese and a chap Anthony in order to bring our troops home safely from Dunkirk and at the end of the world this devotion has been kept going almost every month until COVID struck but once we are over this devotions will begin again.
Then once a year the well is blessed by the pp of the holy name parish also once a year a recent devotion began that Christian women and Muslin women gather together in St Mary’s chapel and pray together for unity later we go process to Holy name hall were the Muslin lady’s put on a beautiful meal of their traditional food. So please prayer the virus goes away so we can once again these be devotions can once again begin. Another this had the blessing of St Padra Pio as each month Therese would send a red rose to him. She and Anthony now resides with the Lord and my sister Molly was asked byTerese to takeover the setting up of alter we use the original statue Our Lady of Lourdes and to lead the prayers and keep everyone informed of any changes.
I hope this helps to enlighten all please your prayers are vital may Jesus and Mary bless all who read this
Correction I meant to type end the war
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